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All 176 questions from across the site, grouped by topic. Each group links to the page it came from, where the answer sits in full context.

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Beyond Indochina

Can you still do Bangkok to Siem Reap overland?

No. Every Thailand–Cambodia land crossing has been closed since late June 2025 and was still closed at the end of August 2026. Any operator selling that leg overland is selling something they cannot deliver.

We fly it. Bangkok to Siem Reap is about an hour and we price the ticket into the trip rather than presenting it as an extra.

Is four countries in two weeks realistic?

Only if you fly every leg and accept two nights per country. We will quote it, but we will also tell you in writing that we think three countries in fourteen days is a better trip.

The arithmetic is on the how many days page.

Do you run fixed departures I can join?

No. Every trip is private and runs on your dates. The eight-traveller ceiling is the maximum size of your own party, not a number of strangers we fill a bus with.

Which countries need a visa arranged before I fly?

It depends on your passport and, more awkwardly, on which border you use. A Laos eVisa is not valid at any land crossing from Vietnam except Dansavanh–Lao Bao, and that one is visa on arrival rather than eVisa.

The visas and entry page sets out all four systems and the border-specific traps.

Read in full: Beyond Indochina.

Tours

Are these fixed departures?

No. Every route runs privately on your dates, for your party only. The eight-traveller ceiling is the maximum size of your own group.

Can I combine two of these routes?

Often yes, and usually for less than the sum of the two, because the overlap days disappear. The Vietnam fourteen-day route and the Cambodia seven-day route combine into about eighteen days rather than twenty-one.

Why is there no Myanmar route?

Because we will not run one. The security situation and the question of where tourist money ends up both point the same way. If Myanmar reopens in a way we can defend, we will say so here.

What is the smallest group you will run?

One traveller. A solo trip costs roughly 35 to 45 per cent more per day than the same trip for two, because the vehicle and guide are the same and there is a single-room supplement on top.

Read in full: Tours.

Prices

Why is your quote higher than the one I got from a local agent?

Usually three things: our guides are on a day rate rather than earning from shopping stops, we staff a separate guide in each country rather than one guide across all four, and we do not put a commission stop into a sightseeing day.

Ask the cheaper quote to name the hotels and to confirm there is a guide on every transfer day. The answers will explain most of the gap.

Do prices change between high and low season?

The hotel component does, sharply. Luang Prabang and Siem Reap rooms can double between May and December. Guides, vehicles and entrance fees barely move.

A trip in May or September can be 20 to 30 per cent cheaper than the same trip in December, and in Laos and Cambodia those months are often better than their reputation.

Is the Angkor pass really USD 62?

Yes, for the three-day pass, which is valid on any three days within ten. One day is USD 37 and seven days is USD 72. Buy at the official counters or at ticket.angkorenterprise.gov.kh.

A pass bought after 17:00 lets you into the park that evening and counts from the next day.

Can I pay in euros or pounds?

We quote and invoice in USD. You can send another currency and your bank will convert it, but the amount that must arrive is the USD figure on the invoice, so leave room for the spread.

Read in full: Prices.

How to book

How far ahead should I book?

For November to February, three to five months, and for Luang Prabang and Siem Reap hotels in December, longer. For May to September, six weeks is usually enough.

The binding constraint on multi-country trips is rarely hotels — it is the intra-regional flights, which get expensive rather than sold out.

Can you book my international flights too?

We would rather not. You will get a better fare with your own miles and your own airline preferences, and open-jaw tickets are easier to manage when you hold them.

We will tell you exactly which airports and which dates the itinerary needs before you book.

What if my visa is refused?

Tell us as soon as you know. If a visa refusal makes the trip impossible and it is more than 30 days out, we treat it under the cancellation ladder and refund everything not already committed.

Refusals for standard tourist visas in these four countries are rare for most passports, but they are not unknown, and applying early leaves room to fix a problem.

Do you take a deposit before I see the itinerary?

No. You see a full day-by-day itinerary with named hotels and a price breakdown before any money changes hands.

Read in full: How to book.

Indochina classic, 18 days

Why is there no sunrise at Angkor Wat in this itinerary?

Because it is a bad hour badly spent. Roughly two thousand people crowd two small reflecting pools, the temple interior is closed until after the sun is up, and you lose the following afternoon to being tired.

We go at 07:30 and reach Angkor Wat at about 08:30, when the sunrise crowd has gone for breakfast. If you want sunrise anyway we will arrange it — we would just rather you knew what you were buying.

Can I swap the Mekong speedboat for a bus?

Yes, and it is cheaper, but we think it is the wrong trade. The bus crosses at Bavet–Moc Bai into Ho Chi Minh City in six to seven hours and skips the delta entirely.

The river crossing is one of the three or four moments on this route that people remember years later.

Is the Laos smoke season really that bad?

From late February to mid-April, yes. Agricultural burning fills the northern valleys and visibility in Nong Khiaw can drop to a few hundred metres for weeks at a time. Flights out of Luang Prabang are occasionally delayed by it.

It is not dangerous for most people and the towns still function. But if the mountains are why you are going, do not go in March.

What happens if the Mekong is too low for the speedboat?

It has not stopped the Phnom Penh–Chau Doc service in recent years, unlike some smaller river routes. If it did, we would drive you to the Bavet–Moc Bai crossing instead and refund the fare difference.

We would tell you before you left home, not on the morning.

Read in full: Indochina classic, 18 days.

Four countries, 24 days

Why fly Bangkok to Siem Reap instead of driving?

Because the road does not exist as an option in 2026. Every Thailand–Cambodia land crossing has been closed since late June 2025, including Poipet–Aranyaprathet, and there is no announced reopening date.

The flight is about an hour and returns most of a day compared with the old overland crossing, so the itinerary is arguably better for it. It is still a border we would rather cross on the ground.

Is the night train to Bangkok comfortable?

Second-class air-conditioned sleeper: two berths per bay, curtains, clean linen, a working dining car. It is comfortable in the way a good European sleeper is comfortable, not in the way a hotel is.

If you would rather not, we can fly Vientiane to Bangkok instead. It costs roughly the same and loses the best travel day of the trip.

Can I shorten this to twenty days?

Yes, and the honest cut is northern Thailand. Dropping Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai takes four days out without breaking the geography, because Bangkok is the flight hub anyway.

Cutting Laos instead saves the same time and costs the trip its best week. We will say so.

What is the worst day on this itinerary?

Day 18. Chiang Rai to Bangkok to Siem Reap is two flights and about eight hours door to door, and it exists only because a border is shut.

We schedule nothing that evening and we do not expect anything of you the next morning before 07:30.

Read in full: Four countries, 24 days.

Vietnam and Cambodia, 12 days

Is the river border crossing complicated?

Not with someone doing the paperwork. Cambodian exit at Kaam Samnor and Vietnamese entry at Vinh Xuong, both riverside posts, roughly forty minutes each with the boat waiting.

The only friction is the unofficial extras: the one-dollar “health check”, the fixers at the pier. Our staff decline them before you have to.

Could I do this in the other direction?

Yes, and we will build it, but the boat leaves Chau Doc at 07:30 which means a 05:00 start, and Angkor lands at the end of the trip rather than the beginning.

Most people who ask end up going downstream once they see the timings.

Can I add the Cambodian coast?

Kampot and Kep add three days and fit neatly after Phnom Penh: pepper farms, a decaying French seaside town, and the best crab in the country. The river crossing then happens on day nine instead of day six.

Why three days at Angkor rather than two?

Because the three-day pass costs USD 62 against USD 37 for one day, and the marginal day is the cheapest good day of the whole trip. Two days sees the central group and Banteay Srei; the third day is where Angkor stops being a checklist.

Read in full: Vietnam and Cambodia, 12 days.

Thailand and Laos, 9 days

Is the public slow boat safe?

Yes, in the ordinary sense: it is a slow, heavy wooden boat on a wide river with an experienced crew, and it has a good record. It is uncomfortable rather than dangerous.

The speedboat on the same route is a different matter and we will not book it.

What is Pak Beng actually like?

One street on a steep bank, a dozen guesthouses, a few restaurants, and about a hundred and fifty passengers arriving at once every afternoon. Electricity can be intermittent.

We book the best rooms available, which means clean, hot water, and a river view. It is still Pak Beng.

Can I do this in reverse, Luang Prabang to Bangkok?

Upstream takes three days rather than two and costs more, because the boats fight the current. Most people who ask decide to go downstream once they hear that.

What if I only have seven days?

Cut Bangkok. Fly straight into Chiang Rai on arrival, and the trip works at seven days without losing the boat.

Cutting the boat instead saves the same two days and removes the reason for the itinerary.

Read in full: Thailand and Laos, 9 days.

Vietnam and Laos, 11 days

Why not cross into Laos further north, closer to Luang Prabang?

Because the Lao eVisa is not valid at any Vietnam land border, and the northern crossings do not issue visas on arrival. You would need a visa from a Lao embassy before flying, which is possible but adds weeks and a courier.

Lao Bao issues on arrival. That is why the route goes where it goes.

How bad is the seven-hour border day?

It is the hardest day of the trip and we do not pretend otherwise. Three hours to Dong Ha and up Route 9, about an hour at the border in a normal queue, and three hours across the plain to the Mekong.

We break it properly, the vehicle is comfortable, and we do not schedule anything that evening.

Will I see the Irrawaddy dolphins?

Perhaps. The Mekong population has recovered to somewhere above a hundred animals from a low of about eighty, and the pool near Don Khon holds a handful of them.

Anyone who guarantees a sighting is guessing. We put you on the water at the right hour and that is the honest limit of what we can do.

Can I run this in reverse, Laos to Vietnam?

Yes, and the border works the same way, but you would need a Vietnamese eVisa in advance because Vietnam does not issue on arrival at Lao Bao. That is straightforward — USD 25 online, three to five working days.

Read in full: Vietnam and Laos, 11 days.

Indochina express, 10 days

Is ten days really enough for three countries?

It is enough for four places in three countries, which is not the same as seeing three countries. You will have a clear sense of Hanoi, of Luang Prabang and of Angkor, and almost none of the countries around them.

If that trade is clear to you, it is a good trip. If it is not, take two countries instead.

Why not add Phnom Penh?

Because it costs a day of driving or a flight plus two transfers, and at ten days there is no slack to pay for it. It is the first thing we add at twelve days.

Can I start in Siem Reap and end in Hanoi?

Yes, and it prices the same. Most people prefer to end at Angkor because it is the strongest single thing on the route and it reads better last.

What happens if a flight is cancelled?

We rebook, we pay the difference first and settle later, and we compress the following day rather than the current one. With two flights in ten days, one cancellation costs you an afternoon rather than a country.

Read in full: Indochina express, 10 days.

Vietnam, 14 days

Ha Giang or Sapa?

Ha Giang, and it is not close any more. Sapa town has been comprehensively built over and the valley walks are crowded; Ha Giang has harder roads, better landscape and a fraction of the traffic.

Sapa is two hours closer to Hanoi and one day shorter. If your days are tight, that is the argument for it, and we will build it.

Can this be done without internal flights?

Yes, using the north-south railway, and it adds three days. The Hanoi–Hue sleeper is a decent overnight; Da Nang to Ho Chi Minh City by rail is seventeen hours and we would not recommend it.

If trains are the point, say so and we will rebuild the middle of this route around them.

Is 14 days too long for one country?

Vietnam is 1,650 kilometres long with three separate climates and a Cham civilisation in the middle of it. Fourteen days is not long for that; it is the minimum for doing it without a permanent sense of leaving somewhere early.

Could I add Cambodia at the end?

Yes. Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh is a six-hour bus or a fifty-minute flight, and five more days gives you Phnom Penh and three at Angkor. That is the eighteen-day classic in a different order.

Read in full: Vietnam, 14 days.

Cambodia, 7 days

Is three days at Angkor too many?

Almost nobody says so afterwards. The three-day pass costs USD 62 against USD 37 for one day, so the marginal days are the cheapest good days of the trip.

Day one is the central group, day two is the outer temples, and day three is the quiet ones with no crowd — which is the day people describe when they get home.

Why Kampong Phluk rather than the nearer floating village?

Chong Kneas is forty minutes closer and has been comprehensively organised around extracting money from visitors, including a well-documented orphanage-visit scam.

Kampong Phluk is a working village on the flood plain. We do not stop at any school or orphanage in either place.

Can I add the coast?

Kampot and Kep add three days after Phnom Penh: pepper farms, a decaying French seaside town and the best crab in Cambodia. We do not send people to Sihanoukville.

How do I get here now the Thai border is closed?

By air. Bangkok to Siem Reap is about an hour and runs several times a day; Bangkok to Phnom Penh is seventy-five minutes. Overland from Vietnam via Bavet–Moc Bai is open and ordinary.

Read crossing borders for the current picture.

Read in full: Cambodia, 7 days.

Northern Laos, 8 days

Is the alms round a tourist spectacle now?

In parts of the main street, yes, and it is uncomfortable to watch. Vendors sell rice to visitors who then hand it over as a performance, and some of that rice is not fit for the monks to eat.

We watch from a side street, standing, no flash, no rice. It is a religious practice, not an activity, and the best way to attend is quietly and at a distance.

Should I fly Luang Prabang to Vientiane instead of the train?

No. The flight is forty minutes but with airport time it is barely faster door to door, it costs three to four times as much, and it is far less reliable.

The train is the best thing that has happened to travel in Laos in decades.

How hard is the Nong Khiaw viewpoint?

Ninety minutes up, roughly 350 metres of climb, on a rough path with two sections of bamboo ladder. It is steep rather than technical.

It is entirely optional and roughly half our travellers skip it. The village and the river are the reason to be there.

Can I add a trek?

Yes, two nights from Nong Khiaw into Khmu and Hmong villages, sleeping in village houses rather than a lodge. It adds two days and USD 290, and it is the best thing we run in Laos.

It needs reasonable fitness: five to six hours walking a day on steep, unpaved ground.

Read in full: Northern Laos, 8 days.

Northern Thailand, 7 days

Why no elephant sanctuary at all?

Because the word does very little work. Riding is indefensible; bathing and feeding programmes still involve chained animals off-hours and a training process nobody films.

There are a small number of observation-only projects we think are genuine. We will name them and let you decide, but we do not sell them as an activity.

Is the White Temple worth it?

As a contemporary artwork by a living artist, yes, for an hour. As a temple, no, and treating it as one leads to disappointment.

It is also very crowded from 10:00. We get there at opening or skip it.

Can I continue into Laos from here?

Yes, and it is one of the better onward moves in the region. Chiang Khong is ninety minutes from Chiang Rai, the fourth Friendship Bridge accepts the Laos eVisa, and the slow boat runs from Huay Xai down to Luang Prabang in two days.

That is the nine-day Thailand and Laos route.

Is Chiang Mai worth three nights?

Yes, and mostly for the reason people do not expect: it is a good city to have unscheduled time in. The temples take a morning; the rest is markets, food and the valleys behind the city.

Read in full: Northern Thailand, 7 days.

Mekong Delta to Phnom Penh, 5 days

Is five days really worth it, or should I just take the bus?

If the delta is not interesting to you, take the bus. It is cheap, it works, and it takes seven hours.

The five days exist for the delta, which is the most densely populated agricultural landscape in Southeast Asia and reads completely differently from a boat than from a road.

What is the border like?

Two small riverside posts, roughly forty minutes each, with the boat waiting. It is orderly. The only friction is the unofficial extras, which our staff decline before you have to.

Can I add Angkor at the end?

Yes. Phnom Penh to Siem Reap is six hours by road, and three nights there gives you the three-day pass properly used. That turns this into an eight-day trip.

Is Cai Rang worth the 05:45 start?

Only at 05:45. It is a wholesale market that starts before dawn and thins out by eight; the nine o'clock version is a handful of boats selling drinks to tourists.

Read in full: Mekong Delta to Phnom Penh, 5 days.

Where to go

Why only fifteen places?

Because a page we cannot write honestly is worse than no page. These are the fifteen we send people to often enough to know what has changed since last year.

We would rather have fifteen pages that are current than fifty that are copied from a guidebook.

Can I visit somewhere not on this list?

Usually yes. The list reflects what we write up, not the limit of what we run. Ninh Binh, Hue, Phong Nha, Battambang, Savannakhet and the Bolaven Plateau all appear inside our routes without having their own page.

Which is the single best place across the four countries?

If you allow only one answer: Angkor, because there is nothing else of that scale and age anywhere in Southeast Asia.

If you allow a second: the Nam Ou valley at Nong Khiaw, which is the place people are most surprised by.

Do I need to visit the capitals?

Hanoi and Phnom Penh, yes — both carry a great deal of what their countries are. Vientiane is worth one night for the COPE centre and not much more. Bangkok is worth two or three nights on its own terms and you will pass through it anyway.

Read in full: Where to go.

Hanoi

Is the Old Quarter too touristy to be worth it?

Parts of it are — the block around Ta Hien street in the evening is essentially a bar strip. But the working trade streets north and west of the market are not, and they are ten minutes on foot from the tourist block.

A guide who knows the guild grid turns it from a maze into a legible thing, which is most of what the first morning is for.

How bad is the traffic really?

Loud and constant, and not actually dangerous at walking speed. Motorbikes flow around pedestrians; they do not brake. The rule is to walk steadily and never stop or step back.

Is the Ethnology Museum worth going out of the centre for?

Yes, and it is the best museum in Vietnam. It covers all 54 recognised ethnic groups with real objects and reconstructed houses in the grounds, and it makes the rest of a northern Vietnam trip legible.

It is eight kilometres west, about 25 minutes, and it is closed on Mondays.

How many nights before flying to Ha Giang or the coast?

At least two, and the second one should be a proper night. Both transfers start between 06:30 and 08:00 and both are long. Arriving from Europe and heading into the mountains the next morning is a bad plan.

Read in full: Hanoi.

Ha Giang

Can I do the Ha Giang loop by motorbike?

Many people do, and a significant number of them crash. The road is winding, wet in patches, and shared with trucks; most travel insurance excludes motorbike riding without the correct licence.

We drive it. If riding is the point of the trip for you, we are the wrong operator.

Are the market days worth planning around?

Yes. Dong Van market is Sunday morning and Meo Vac market is Sunday too, starting before six. They are livestock and produce markets where actual trade happens.

If your dates can flex by a day or two to catch one, they should.

How high is it and does altitude matter?

The plateau sits between 1,000 and 1,600 metres. That is high enough to be genuinely cold in winter and not high enough for altitude to be a health issue for anyone.

Is the Nho Que boat trip worth it?

Yes, and it is short — about an hour through the Tu San gorge, which is the deepest in Southeast Asia. It also gives you the Ma Pi Leng from below, which is a completely different thing from the road above.

The access road down to the jetty is steep and rough. In heavy rain it closes.

Read in full: Ha Giang.

Hoi An

What is the old town ticket and do I need it?

A 120,000 dong ticket that admits you to five of about twenty heritage buildings. Walking the streets is free; entering the assembly halls, old houses and the Japanese bridge is not.

Enforcement at the street entrances has varied over the years. We buy it because the money goes to the conservation fund, which is doing real work.

Are the tailors any good?

Some are excellent and many are not. A good jacket takes three fittings over two days and costs USD 120 to 250; the USD 40 suit made overnight is made overnight and it shows.

If a tailored garment matters to you, build it into the first day, not the last.

Is My Son worth the early start?

Yes, at 07:00. It is the largest Cham site in Vietnam, built between the fourth and thirteenth centuries, and it was heavily bombed in 1969 — several of the finest towers are craters.

By 09:30 it is hot and full. The site is small and does not absorb a crowd.

Town or beach?

Town if you want to walk out at 06:30 and again at 21:30, which is what the place is for. Beach if you want quiet and a pool, and you are content to cycle or be driven in twice.

Most people who have been before choose the beach.

Read in full: Hoi An.

Mekong Delta

Is Cai Rang still a real market?

Yes, and it is shrinking. Better roads have moved a lot of wholesale trade onto trucks, and the number of boats has fallen over the last decade.

It is still a working wholesale market at six in the morning, with produce moving in tonnes and the shop sign being a sample tied to a pole. It is not that at nine.

Ben Tre or Vinh Long or My Tho?

Ben Tre. My Tho is closest to Ho Chi Minh City and takes almost all of the day-trip traffic. Vinh Long is a reasonable middle option. Ben Tre has the best small-canal network and the least of the coach trade.

How does the river border crossing actually work?

The boat stops at Vinh Xuong for Vietnamese exit, runs a few hundred metres upriver, and stops at Kaam Samnor for Cambodian entry. Roughly forty minutes each, with the boat waiting.

The friction is unofficial: a one-dollar “health check” with a thermometer, fixers at the Chau Doc pier selling visas you already hold. Decline both.

Is the delta sinking?

It is subsiding and salt is intruding further inland each decade, driven by groundwater extraction, upstream dams and sea level. It is one of the most exposed large deltas in the world.

It is not something you see on a three-day visit, but it is the honest background to what you are looking at.

Read in full: Mekong Delta.

Luang Prabang

Is Luang Prabang too touristy?

The main street between 09:00 and 21:00, yes. The rest of the peninsula, no, and the monasteries are functioning religious institutions rather than exhibits.

Be out at 06:30 and at 21:30 and it is a different town. That is not a workaround; it is how to visit the place.

Is Kuang Si worth the trip?

Yes. Forty-five minutes out, limestone pools in an improbable turquoise, and swimmable in the lower ones. Go after 15:00 when the day groups have gone, or before 09:00.

The moon bear rescue centre at the entrance is a genuine sanctuary run by Free the Bears, not a photo attraction.

Should I take the train or fly to Vientiane?

The train, every time. Two hours against a forty-minute flight that costs three to four times as much and is less reliable door to door.

Is Vang Vieng worth stopping at on the way south?

It has cleaned up a great deal since its worst years and the landscape is genuinely good. But it is a karst valley with an activity industry attached, and Nong Khiaw does the same landscape better and quieter.

We will build it if you want it. We do not put it in by default.

Read in full: Luang Prabang.

Nong Khiaw

Is Nong Khiaw better than Vang Vieng?

For landscape, yes, and it is not particularly close. Similar karst, a better river, and none of the activity industry.

Vang Vieng is easier to reach and has more to do if doing things is the point. Nong Khiaw is the one people remember.

Can I get there without a private vehicle?

Yes, by public minibus from Luang Prabang, which takes four to five hours and leaves in the morning. It is cramped and it works.

The boat down the Nam Ou from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang no longer runs as a through service because of the dams built on the river between 2013 and 2021.

How hard is the trek to the villages?

Five to six hours of walking a day on steep, unpaved paths, sleeping on a mat in a village house with a shared washing area. It is not a hardship expedition and it is not comfortable.

The reason to do it is that it is the only way to see how most people in northern Laos actually live.

Is there anything to do in the evenings?

Very little, on purpose. A handful of restaurants, a few bars, and it is dark and quiet by ten. That is most of the appeal.

Read in full: Nong Khiaw.

Vientiane

Is Vientiane worth a night at all?

For COPE, yes. For the temples and the arch, not really, and we would rather say so than pad the day.

It is also frequently unavoidable: it is where the northern railway ends and where the Thai crossing is.

Can I cross to Thailand without stopping in Vientiane?

Not sensibly. The bridge is twenty kilometres from the centre, the train station is on the same side, and the sleeper leaves in the evening.

You can arrive on the morning train from Luang Prabang and cross the same afternoon, which is what our four-country route does.

How does the overnight train to Bangkok compare with flying?

The flight is an hour and ten and costs a little more. The train is twelve and a half hours and saves a hotel night.

The train is also a genuinely good travel day, and it keeps the crossing on the ground, which is why we prefer it.

Is the Buddha Park worth the trip?

It is an eccentric 1958 sculpture garden of concrete Hindu and Buddhist figures, twenty-five kilometres out, and it takes half a morning including the drive.

Worth it on a second night. Not worth cutting COPE for.

Read in full: Vientiane.

Four Thousand Islands

Will I see the dolphins?

Perhaps. The pool holds a handful of animals from a Mekong population that has recovered above a hundred, and sightings are common but not reliable.

We use boats that hold their distance and cut the engine. A guaranteed sighting is not something anyone can honestly sell.

Don Det or Don Khon?

Don Khon. Same island group, joined by the old railway bridge, and a fraction of the party traffic. Don Det has a long-standing backpacker scene at the northern end.

Can I cross into Cambodia from here?

Yes. The Nong Nok Khiene – Trapeang Kriel crossing is forty minutes south and it is open and ordinary. Onward to Stung Treng and Kratie.

It is one of the few land borders that accepts the Lao eVisa, which makes it easier than most.

Is it worth it if I have already seen the Mekong further north?

It is a different river here. Upstream it is a channel between banks; here it is a braided system fourteen kilometres wide that defeated an empire trying to sail up it.

If the river is the interest, this is the most striking thing it does.

Read in full: Four Thousand Islands.

Angkor

How many days do I really need?

Three on the pass. One day sees Angkor Wat and the Bayon badly; two sees them properly plus Banteay Srei; three adds the quiet temples, which is where most people find the thing they remember.

Is Beng Mealea or Koh Ker the better second-day trip?

Beng Mealea if you want the ruin-in-the-forest experience and a shorter drive; it is covered by your pass. Koh Ker if you want something structurally different — a seven-tiered pyramid from a tenth-century rival capital, UNESCO-listed in 2023.

Koh Ker is two hours each way and USD 15 extra in cash.

What should I wear?

Shoulders and knees covered, which is enforced at Angkor Wat's upper terrace. Shoes with grip — the stone is worn smooth and often uneven.

A hat and more water than you think. There is shade at Ta Prohm and Preah Khan and almost none at Angkor Wat.

Are the temples floodlit or open at night?

No. The park closes at 17:30 to 18:00 depending on the temple, and there is no night access. Anyone offering it is not offering something legitimate.

Read in full: Angkor.

Siem Reap

How far is the new airport really?

Forty-five kilometres, about 55 minutes in normal traffic. Siem Reap Angkor International opened in 2023 and the old airport is closed.

Build the hour into both your arrival and your departure. People miss connections over this.

How do I get here now the Thai border is shut?

By air. Bangkok to Siem Reap is about an hour and runs several times a day. Overland from Vietnam via Bavet–Moc Bai and Phnom Penh is open and ordinary.

Every Thailand–Cambodia land crossing has been closed since late June 2025 with no announced reopening.

Is Pub Street unavoidable?

Entirely avoidable. It is two blocks. The river, the French quarter and the streets north of the water are ten minutes away and are a different town.

Why will you not arrange an orphanage visit?

Because roughly four in five children in Cambodian residential care institutions have at least one living parent, and the visitor trade is a large part of what keeps those institutions full.

It is one of the clearest cases in travel where good intentions cause harm, and no operator should be selling it.

Read in full: Siem Reap.

Phnom Penh

Do I have to visit Tuol Sleng?

No, and some people should not. It is a preserved prison and it is upsetting in a way that a museum about an atrocity is not.

Most people who go say afterwards that it was necessary. We will arrange the morning differently, without comment, if you would rather not.

Is the National Museum worth it?

Yes, and it is under-visited. Its collection of pre-Angkorian and Angkorian sandstone sculpture is the finest anywhere, including several pieces removed from Angkor for safekeeping.

An hour and a half, and it makes the temples read differently afterwards.

How bad is the airport transfer now?

Techo is 20 kilometres out and takes 45 to 60 minutes, longer in the evening peak. Pochentong, which was closer, is closed.

For an evening departure we leave the hotel two and a half hours before the flight.

Is Phnom Penh safe?

Ordinarily, yes, with the normal caution about bag-snatching from motorbikes on the riverside at night — carry your bag on the inside and do not hold a phone at the kerb.

The tuk-tuk apps are cheap and remove most of the friction.

Read in full: Phnom Penh.

Kampot and Kep

Is the crab market worth the reputation?

Yes. Crab pulled from traps you can see, stir-fried with green Kampot pepper still on the stem, eaten at a plastic table on the seafront for about ten dollars.

Go at lunch rather than dinner; the catch comes in through the morning.

Can I swim?

Not well. The water is shallow and silty and the seabed is full of crab traps. Rabbit Island, twenty minutes offshore, has a decent stretch of sand and basic bungalows.

If a beach is what you want, this is not the right coast.

Is Bokor worth the drive?

In the dry season, yes — an hour up an excellent road to an abandoned hill station in cloud, with a history involving a great many deaths during its construction.

From June to October it is inside a cloud and there is nothing to see. The contemporary casino development up there is also worth knowing about before you go.

Is the pepper worth buying?

It is one of the few genuinely distinctive agricultural products in the region, with a protected geographical indication, and the good farms sell at farm prices.

Buy at the farm, not at the airport. We take no commission on it either way.

Read in full: Kampot and Kep.

Bangkok

Is the Grand Palace worth the queue?

Once, and early. It opens at 08:30 and by 10:00 it is very busy. Wat Pho next door is calmer, cheaper and, for many people, better.

Dress code is enforced: shoulders and knees covered, no see-through fabric. They will sell you a wrap at the gate if you get it wrong.

Riverside or Sukhumvit?

Riverside, if the city is the point. You get the express boat at the door, the old town within walking distance, and a completely different set of streets.

Sukhumvit is better connected to the airport rail and has more international restaurants. It is also anywhere.

Do I really need to file the arrival card?

Yes, every foreign national, every entry, including overland from Laos. It is free, it takes five minutes, and the window opens 72 hours before arrival.

Do it at tdac.immigration.go.th and nowhere else.

Can I reach Cambodia overland from Bangkok?

Not in 2026. Every Thailand–Cambodia land crossing, including Poipet–Aranyaprathet, has been closed since late June 2025 and no reopening date has been announced.

Flights operate normally. See crossing borders.

Read in full: Bangkok.

Chiang Mai

Is there any elephant experience you will book?

We will name the small number of observation-only projects we believe are genuine, and you can book directly with them if you want to. We do not sell them as an activity or take any margin.

Anything involving riding, bathing or feeding, we decline.

Is a cooking class worth a morning?

In Chiang Mai, yes, and more than in most places, because northern Thai food is genuinely different from what people mean by Thai food.

The good classes start at the market at 07:00 with what things are, not with a recipe card.

Is Pai worth adding?

It is three hours north on a road with 762 curves and a well-earned reputation for car sickness. The valley is lovely and the town is a backpacker scene.

Two nights minimum if you go. We will build it and we rarely suggest it.

How does Chiang Mai compare with Luang Prabang?

Chiang Mai is a real working city with a preserved core; Luang Prabang is a small town where the preserved core is almost the whole thing.

If you can only do one, Luang Prabang is more unusual. Chiang Mai is better to spend a week in.

Read in full: Chiang Mai.

Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle

Is the Golden Triangle a tourist trap?

The viewpoint at Sop Ruak is, mildly. The Hall of Opium three kilometres away is not, and it is one of the better museums in Thailand.

Go for the museum and take the view on the way past.

Is the White Temple worth it?

For an hour, as a contemporary artwork. It is very crowded from 10:00, so go at opening or skip it.

Approaching it as a historic temple leads to disappointment; it has been under construction since 1997.

How does the crossing into Laos work?

Thai exit at Chiang Khong, a shuttle bus across the fourth Friendship Bridge because you cannot walk it, and Lao entry at Huay Xai. The Lao eVisa is valid here.

Allow ninety minutes. Then the slow boat leaves the following morning, which is why we sleep in Huay Xai.

Can I cross into Myanmar at Mae Sai?

The crossing has opened and closed repeatedly and the situation on the other side is unstable. We do not run trips into Myanmar and would not recommend a day crossing.

Read in full: Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle.

Crossing borders

When will the Thailand–Cambodia border reopen?

Nobody knows, and anyone giving you a date is guessing. The Thai position as of late August 2026 was that reopening depends on conditions being met and would be a step-by-step restoration rather than a single announcement.

We check the position before every departure and we will tell you if it changes.

Is it safe to travel in Cambodia and Thailand at all?

In the tourist regions, yes. The dispute is confined to a stretch of the shared border. Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and the coasts are all far outside the advisory zones.

We do not route within 50 kilometres of the disputed border in either country.

Can I cross a border independently and meet you on the other side?

Yes, and some people prefer to. We will give you the briefing either way and have someone waiting.

The one crossing where we would push back is Lao Bao, because the visa on arrival process there benefits from someone who does it regularly.

What about Myanmar and China?

We do not operate in Myanmar and will not while the current situation holds. The Thai crossings at Mae Sai and Mae Sot open and close unpredictably.

China is reachable from Laos by rail at Boten and needs a Chinese visa arranged in advance. We do not currently build itineraries across it.

Read in full: Crossing borders.

Visas and entry

How far ahead should I apply?

Four to six weeks. All three eVisas process in three to five working days, but applying early leaves room to fix a rejected photograph or a mistyped passport number without a courier.

The Thai arrival card is the exception: it can only be filed inside the 72 hours before you arrive.

Do I need visas for all four countries even in transit?

If you leave the airport, yes. Airside transit does not require entry for most nationalities, but every itinerary on this site enters each country properly.

What if my passport is nearly full?

Get a new one. Four countries means up to eight stamps plus visa pages, and several land crossings will refuse entry without two blank facing pages.

Can I get a Cambodian visa at the Thai border?

There is no Thai land border to get one at. Every crossing has been closed since June 2025. Arriving by air, visa on arrival at Siem Reap or Phnom Penh is USD 30 and straightforward.

Read in full: Visas and entry.

Getting to Indochina

Should I fly into Bangkok even if my trip starts in Vietnam?

Sometimes. Bangkok fares from Europe are often USD 150 to 300 below Hanoi for the same dates, and the connection to Hanoi is short and cheap.

Do the arithmetic including the extra connection and the risk of a missed bag. It is worth checking, not worth assuming.

Can I add a stopover somewhere on the way?

Most Gulf and East Asian carriers allow a stopover for little or nothing. It is a decision about your long-haul ticket rather than about the trip, and we will work around whatever you book.

Do you book internal flights?

Yes, every flight inside the region is included in our prices and issued by us: Hanoi–Luang Prabang, Bangkok–Siem Reap, the domestic Vietnamese legs and so on.

We do not book the long-haul into and out of the region.

What if my inbound flight is delayed?

Tell us the new arrival time and the driver waits. There is no charge for a delayed arrival; the transfer is booked for your flight number, not your original time.

If a delay costs a day of the itinerary, we compress rather than cancel and we tell you what we have moved.

Read in full: Getting to Indochina.

Getting around

Is the Laos–China Railway bookable in advance from abroad?

Booking opens seven days ahead. Agents such as 12go and Bookaway sell it with a small markup and save you a station queue; the official channel needs a Lao phone number or a passport shown at a counter.

We book it for our travellers the moment the window opens.

Are night buses ever a good idea?

Rarely. They save a hotel night and cost you the following morning, and the sleeper buses in Laos and northern Vietnam have a poor safety record on mountain roads.

We do not use them. Night trains are a different matter and we use those.

How reliable are internal flights?

Vietnamese and Thai domestic services are broadly reliable. Lao Airlines is less so, and thin routes such as Hanoi–Luang Prabang are consolidated or retimed more often than we would like.

We build a buffer around any flight that connects to another flight, and we do not schedule a border crossing on the same day as an international flight.

Can I combine several of these journeys into one trip?

That is essentially what our routes are. The twenty-four-day four-country route uses a night train, a fast train, a night on a boat, four flights and about thirty hours of road.

Read in full: Getting around.

When to go

What is the single best month for a four-country trip?

Late November or early December. Everywhere is dry, the smoke has not started, the floods have finished, and it is not yet Christmas pricing.

January is nearly as good and northern Vietnam is colder and greyer.

Is the wet season really that bad?

No, and it is the most over-stated thing in this region's travel writing. Rain arrives in one or two heavy bursts in the afternoon and stops. Mornings are usually clear.

What you lose: some mountain roads in northern Vietnam, some river routes, and reliability. What you gain: green landscape, full waterfalls, no crowds, and 20 to 30 per cent off hotels.

How bad is Angkor in April?

Thirty-eight to forty degrees on open stone with no shade at Angkor Wat. It is genuinely difficult and people underestimate it.

We build the 11:00 to 15:00 break into every temple day all year, and in April it is not optional.

Can I avoid burning season by going somewhere else in Laos?

Partly. Southern Laos — the Bolaven Plateau and Four Thousand Islands — is far less affected than the north, so a March trip to Laos should go south.

That is one of the reasons our Vietnam and Laos overland route goes where it goes.

Read in full: When to go.

How many days you need

Is it better to see less of more countries or more of fewer?

Fewer, almost always, and the people who tell us this most emphatically are the ones who did it the other way the first time.

The exception is a genuine once-in-a-lifetime trip where you know you will not come back. Then four countries in eighteen days is a defensible choice and we will build it well.

How many days does Angkor need?

Three on the pass, plus arrival and departure, so four nights in Siem Reap in practice. The three-day pass costs USD 62 against USD 37 for one day, and the marginal days are the cheapest good days of any trip in the region.

Can I add days to one of your routes?

Yes, and the best places to add them are Luang Prabang, Hoi An and Kampot — the three places where an empty day pays for itself.

The worst place to add a day is a capital city, where people run out of things to do and end up shopping.

What if I only have five days?

One country, two places, and a short trip. The five-day delta crossing is the only thing we sell at that length, and it works because it is a journey rather than a tour.

Read in full: How many days you need.

Two countries or four

Which two countries go best together?

Vietnam and Cambodia, joined by the Mekong crossing at Kaam Samnor, because the border is a boat and the two countries are genuinely different from each other.

Thailand and Laos is the best short pairing, and the slow boat is one of the great journeys of the region.

Can I do three countries but drop one place from each?

That is exactly the compromise that produces a trip of arrival afternoons. Better to drop a country and keep the nights.

The exception is flying every leg, which is what our ten-day express does and which we describe honestly on that page.

Does adding Thailand cost more now?

Yes, if Cambodia is also in the trip, because the land border is closed and the two can only be joined by air. That is a flight and an airport transfer at each end.

Adding Thailand to a Laos trip costs almost nothing extra: the Friendship Bridge crossings are easy and the train works.

What if my party disagrees about this?

Common, and usually resolvable. Send us both versions and we will price them side by side with an honest comparison like the table above.

It is easier to argue about a document than about an idea.

Read in full: Two countries or four.

The Mekong

Is a Mekong cruise worth it?

The multi-day cruise ships between Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City are a legitimate way to travel and they are a different product from what we build: fixed departures, fifty to a hundred passengers, and a schedule.

We use small boats for specific journeys instead. If a cruise is what you want, we are not the right operator and we will say so.

Which single Mekong journey is the best?

The two-day slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, for the length of it and for the fact that nothing is scheduled for twelve hours.

The Phnom Penh to Chau Doc crossing is the most interesting, because it is an international border at river speed.

Can I swim in it?

People do. The current is strong and inconsistent, there is significant boat traffic, and water quality varies enormously. We do not encourage it in the main channel.

The tributaries and the falls pools — Kuang Si, Li Phi — are a different matter.

Is the river dangerous in the wet season?

The scheduled boats run all year and the operators know the river. High water is faster and browner rather than more dangerous.

The exception is the speedboat between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, which we will not book in any season.

Read in full: The Mekong.

Private or small group

Is a private trip twice the price of a group tour?

For two people, it is often 60 to 100 per cent more than a large-group headline price. For five or six people, the gap narrows to 20 or 30 per cent.

Some of that headline gap is not real, because group prices frequently exclude flights and entrance fees that we include. Compare inclusions before you compare numbers.

Can I join another party to share costs?

We do not run a matching service, because a trip where two parties who have never met are dividing decisions tends to satisfy neither.

If you know the other party, we will happily quote you as one group.

What is the solo supplement?

Roughly 35 to 45 per cent on the per-day rate, made up of the whole vehicle and guide plus a single-room supplement at hotels.

We do not add a margin on top of that. It is what it costs.

What if my party size changes after booking?

We re-price. If someone drops out the per-person rate rises, and if someone joins it falls, and either way we show you the arithmetic rather than just a new number.

Read in full: Private or small group.

Where to stay

Can I mix levels within one trip?

Yes, and a lot of people should. Comfortable throughout with two nights at Excellent in Luang Prabang and Siem Reap — the two places where the best hotels are genuinely special — is a common and sensible shape.

We will price any combination you like.

Do you get better rates than I would booking direct?

Sometimes, sometimes not. On small independent hotels we are often at the same rate or slightly above it.

What we get that you cannot is the ability to move a booking at 22:00 when a road closes, which is most of the point.

Why do you name hotels when other quotes give star ratings?

Because a star rating is a claim and a hotel name is a fact you can check. It is also the easiest place to hide a 25 per cent price difference.

If a quote you are comparing does not name hotels, ask for the names before you compare the numbers.

What if I do not like the hotel when I arrive?

Tell the guide or call the 24-hour number. We move you where there is availability, and if the property was not as described we pay the difference.

It happens two or three times a year and it is not a fight.

Read in full: Where to stay.

Travelling responsibly

What if I have already booked an elephant camp myself?

That is your decision and we will not lecture you about it. We will not transport you to it or arrange it, and we will tell you what we know if you ask.

Is there any way to help children in Cambodia as a visitor?

Yes, and none of them involves visiting an institution. Family-strengthening programmes that keep children with their parents, the demining agencies, and vocational arts training such as Phare.

We will name specific organisations, and we take nothing from any of them.

Do you offset the flights?

No, and we would rather explain than sell you something. The offset market for aviation has a poor record and we do not want to charge you for a claim we cannot stand behind.

What we do instead is route overland where the borders allow it and use trains and boats over short flights.

Are your guides really paid more?

Our day rates are USD 45 to 90 depending on country, against a market that is commonly 30 to 40 per cent lower for guides who make up the difference in shopping commission.

You can check this: ask any operator what their guides are paid and whether they earn from stops. The answer, or the absence of one, is informative.

Read in full: Travelling responsibly.

About us

Are you a local company or an overseas one?

We operate with our own staff and long-standing partners inside the four countries rather than subcontracting a route to a single regional wholesaler.

That is what makes the border days work and it is a large part of what our price pays for.

What happens if a border closes while I am travelling?

We rebuild the route, pay whatever the change costs first, and settle with you afterwards rather than negotiating in a hotel lobby.

This is not hypothetical. It happened in June 2025 and it is why the routes on this site are built the way they are.

Do you take a commission from hotels or shops?

From hotels, yes, in the ordinary way that any agent does, and it is inside the price you see. From shops, workshops and farms, no — nothing, in any country.

That is a real difference and it is most of why an afternoon with us has no shopping stop in it.

Can I speak to someone before booking?

Yes. Say so in your enquiry and we will call, at a time in your time zone. Multi-country routing is easier to discuss than to email.

Read in full: About us.

Contact

How quickly will you reply?

Within one working day, and usually sooner. If you have not heard from us in two, something has gone wrong with the email and it is worth sending again.

Can I call rather than email?

Yes. Say so in your enquiry with a time zone and a rough window, and we will call you. There is no charge and no obligation.

Do you charge for an itinerary?

No. You get a full day-by-day itinerary with named hotels and a price breakdown before any money changes hands, and two rounds of revision after that.

What if I am not sure what I want yet?

Send the dates and the party size and say so. The first reply is a routing sketch precisely for this case, and it is easier to react to a proposal than to invent one.

Read in full: Contact.

Common questions

Questions travellers ask most

Can you still do Bangkok to Siem Reap overland?

No. Every Thailand–Cambodia land crossing has been closed since late June 2025 and was still closed at the end of August 2026. Any operator selling that leg overland is selling something they cannot deliver.

We fly it. Bangkok to Siem Reap is about an hour and we price the ticket into the trip rather than presenting it as an extra.

Is four countries in two weeks realistic?

Only if you fly every leg and accept two nights per country. We will quote it, but we will also tell you in writing that we think three countries in fourteen days is a better trip.

The arithmetic is on the how many days page.

Do you run fixed departures I can join?

No. Every trip is private and runs on your dates. The eight-traveller ceiling is the maximum size of your own party, not a number of strangers we fill a bus with.

Which countries need a visa arranged before I fly?

It depends on your passport and, more awkwardly, on which border you use. A Laos eVisa is not valid at any land crossing from Vietnam except Dansavanh–Lao Bao, and that one is visa on arrival rather than eVisa.

The visas and entry page sets out all four systems and the border-specific traps.

Are these fixed departures?

No. Every route runs privately on your dates, for your party only. The eight-traveller ceiling is the maximum size of your own group.

Can I combine two of these routes?

Often yes, and usually for less than the sum of the two, because the overlap days disappear. The Vietnam fourteen-day route and the Cambodia seven-day route combine into about eighteen days rather than twenty-one.

Why is there no Myanmar route?

Because we will not run one. The security situation and the question of where tourist money ends up both point the same way. If Myanmar reopens in a way we can defend, we will say so here.

What is the smallest group you will run?

One traveller. A solo trip costs roughly 35 to 45 per cent more per day than the same trip for two, because the vehicle and guide are the same and there is a single-room supplement on top.

Start planning

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